Back in 2015 I was excited to get my new camera: Olympus OMD Em5II. The decade prior to that I used different Canon cameras and before that again, when I started photographing, I used an old Nikon film camera. If it’s one thing I regret when it comes to photography it’s my decision to change systems from Canon to Olympus.
You should be glad that Olympus has pro service (?), because you’ll definitely be going to need service if you get an Olympus.
You can safely say that my initial enthusiasm for Olympus has died. In the beginning I was happy to make the transition from Canon to Olympus. Well, perhaps died is not the correct word to use: I guess it’s more correct to say that Olympus succesfully killed my enthusiasm.
In these past 4 years since making the change, my Olympus camera has been to service 3 times. Can you guess how many times my Canon cameras needed service during the decade+ I used them? That’s right: not once.
The first time my Olympus needed service was in June/July 2017: The on/off button stopped working. The camera didn’t shut off, but kept draining the batteries until they were completely dead.
The second time my Olympus needed service was in July 2018: Same shit happened again. The on/off button stopped working. The camera didn’t shut off, but kept draining the batteries until they were completely dead.
The third time my Olympus needed service was in May 2019: I opened the screen on the back of the camera and it fell off.
Yesterday when I went and got my camera back from service, the Olympus factory (the shop has to ship the camera from Oslo to an Olympus factory in Germany or something, so the process of getting the camera fixed takes several weeks) also sent me a pamphlet together with the camera. The pamphlet contained information on how to properly use the screen on the back of the camera.
I told the guys at Scandinavian Photo here in Oslo: perhaps someone from Canon or Nikon should send Olympus some information on how to make quality cameras?
Other problems with Olympus:
– Make sure to carry enough batteries, because they don’t last long.
– Save your favorite settings, because they’ll be reset to factory settings every time you have to deliver your camera for repair.
Because I’m going to Italy (my colleague is picking me up in an hour), I decided to buy a new tripod. The one I already have (Induro AKB1 | AT113) is a very good and stable tripod, but it’s too large for travels and it ends up spending most of its time home alone.
So, this morning I went to the local toy store Scandinavian Photo and bought a Benro IT25. It can fit in a small suitcase, which means that it’s good for travelling. It’s made out of aluminium. They had some lighter carbon tripods there too, but the prices were too high. The aluminum one was something like 400 grams heavier and about 100 Euro cheaper.
Induro AKB1 | AT113 won’t fit a small suitcase.
The Benro IT25 fits a small suitcase.
Folded Benro IT25
My new travel companion.
In the camera bag I've packed:
Olympus OMD EM5II
A 45mm, f1.8. Lens
A 40-150mm, f2.8 lens
One ND8, plus one ND32 filter.
Panasonic Lumix DMC-GM5 with a 12-32mm f3.5
Now I’m looking forward to try out this new tripod.
Specifications for Benro IT25:
Maximum height: 1545mm
A few weeks ago a fellow blogger asked me how you get the star effects on artificial light in night photos. That person thought it was a stupid question, but I disagree. I think it’s a good question and I think that it’s good to ask about stuff. Without asking questions, there would be no new knowledge.
In my two example shots, you can clearly see the star effect appearing when shooting at a small aperture (I shot at f/22).
Star Effect: f/22 | ISO 100 | 25,0 sec
No stars: f/4,5 | ISO 100 | 2,0 sec
Compare the two shot at 25,0 sec at f/22, ISO 100 and 2,0 sec at f/4,5, ISO 100.
About a month ago I published some photos from a photo shoot with Tomer & Shanny. After we had been a while and shot a lot of photos at the location, I wanted to experiment a little bit – it gets boring to just do the same shots over and over – so, to get a more playful and artistic look, I mounted the camera on the tripod and set the camera to long exposure while I used the flash & zoom.
Photo shoot with Tomer & Shanny. Experimenting with slow sync flash.
When I saw the theme for WordPress’ Weekly Photo Challenge this week, I immediately thought of forced perspective – not cropping images.
An example of forced perspective.
«Forced perspective is a technique that employs optical illusion to make an object appear farther away, closer, larger or smaller than it actually is. It is used primarily in photography, filmmaking and architecture. It manipulates human visual perception through the use of scaled objects and the correlation between them and the vantage point of the spectator or camera.» (Wikipedia)
Last weekend we went to the annual Travel Exhibition (you can read about the previous one in the link section). The previous years this exhibition has been held in Lillestrøm in co-operation with the Photo Exhibition, which has (at least for me) been a perfect combination. This year they separated the two exhibitions, to my huge disappointment.
Do you sharpen up your images in Photoshop? Perhaps you use one of the preset sharpen methods you find under the filter menu? (filter – sharpen).
Very often these presets are just exactly what you’ll need to enhance your photo, but sometimes you want to/need to have more control over the process. In this tutorial I’ll show you how to sharpen your image in just a few small steps using the High Pass filter.
The photo I’ve used in this tutorial is a scan from film. The star of the photo, the penguin, was captured on a trip to Cape Town, South Africa.
Open your photo and copy the original layer (ctrl+j)
On the copied layer, choose the high pass filter (filter – other + high pass) (illustration 01)
By default the radius is set to 10 pixels, which should be suitable. Click OK.
Change the blending mode for the layer. Set it to Hard Light (illustration 02)
Play around with the opacity of the layer until you’re satisfied with the result.
If needed you can also add a Brightness/Contrast Layer, but this depends entirely on your photo.